Crown molding comes in several sizes, made to complement different rooms. In our 12’ x 10’ dining room, 3⁄4", 38° molding looked just right. Crown molding requires sequence, patience, and jigs. Sequence, because it’s easiest to work your way around the room. Patience, because it will be seen by a V-I-P, namely Y-O-U. And jigs, because you’ll cut the molding in a homemade jig. I buy extra molding. Although I generally paint or stain molding first, if you don’t stain the extra molding, you can always return it.
Step 1: Been Workin’ on the Nailer
Instead of nailing crown molding to the framing (the studs, plate, and joist), attach it to a nailer-a piece you attach to hold your nails. If you cut the nailer to fit the angle and size of the molding, it will practically fall into position on the wall. Crown molding may rest at either 38° or 45° to vertical; cut this angle on the nailer, as described in a moment. Position the nailers 4" away from the corners, to leave room for molding at the corners. Attach the nailer to the plate at the top of the studs with screws or staples 16" apart and slanting upward. Fasteners must grab 1" of the plate.
Step 2: The Nailing Sequence
With the nailer attached, turn your attention to the attaching the molding in the most efficient order, starting with corner. Position the nailers 4" away from the corners, to leave room for molding at the corners. Attach the nailer to the plate at the top of the studs with screws or staples 16" apart and slanting upward. Fasteners must grab 1" of the plate. Most pieces of crown molding get a butt (square) cut at one end and a coped or mited joint at the other. Use this sequence for fastening:
